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Fridge Not Working but Freezer Is? How to Fix it

AZparts Team

Updated on July 1, 2025

11 min read

Is your fridge not working but the freezer working? This common issue can be both confusing and frustrating, especially when your food starts to spoil. Several factors could be behind the problem, from airflow blockages to faulty thermostats. In this guide, AZParts break down the possible causes and show you how to troubleshoot the issue effectively.

fridge not working freezer working 1751367073

1. Why the Freezer Works But the Fridge Doesn’t

It’s a frustrating scenario: you open your fridge and find your food going warm or starting to spoil, yet the freezer is still running just fine. This is a common issue in many refrigerators and usually points to a cooling imbalance, where the cold air isn’t circulating properly between the compartments. Understanding the root cause is essential for a quick fix and avoiding unnecessary part replacements.

Below, we break down the most common reasons why your freezer stays cold but the fridge does not, starting with airflow issues.

1.1. Overstuff Blocked Airflow

When too much food is packed into the freezer or fridge, especially around the internal vents, the airflow becomes restricted. Even if the cooling system itself is functioning properly, limited air circulation means the fridge can't maintain a consistent temperature.

Signs of blocked airflow:

Freezer is cold, but fridge is warm or room temperature
Frost buildup near vents
Loud or overactive fan sounds

How to fix:

Avoid overpacking: Keep both compartments no more than ¾ full.
Check for and clear any items covering air vents.
Defrost any visible frost buildup manually if needed.
Regularly clean the back and sides of your fridge to promote ventilation.

Overstuff blocked airflow make fridge not working (Source: AZParts)

1.2. Faulty Evaporator Fan Motor

The evaporator fan, usually located inside the freezer near the evaporator coils, draws air over the coils and pushes that cold air throughout the fridge and freezer. Without this circulation, the fridge can't receive the cold air it needs to stay cool.

Signs of Faulty Evaporator Fan Motor:

Freezer is cold, but the fridge is warm or room temperature
Unusual noises from the freezer (buzzing, clicking, or silence when it should be running)
No air blowing into the fridge when the door switch is pressed

How to fix:

Check for obstructions – Make sure nothing is blocking the fan blades.
Test the fan – Open the freezer door and press the door switch manually. The fan should start spinning. If it doesn’t, that’s a sign of a problem.
Verify power – If the fan isn’t working, ensure it's receiving power. Check the wiring, fuses, or circuit breakers.
Replace if needed – If the fan is getting power but still doesn’t work, the motor likely needs to be replaced. You can find compatible refrigerator motors and other genuine replacement parts at AZParts.

High-quality refrigerator motors at AZParts (Source: AZParts)

1.3. Damper Control Malfunction

The damper is a small door that regulates the flow of cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. When it’s working properly, the damper opens and closes based on the fridge’s temperature needs.

If the damper gets stuck in the closed position, or the motor controlling it fails, cold air from the freezer can’t reach the fridge. As a result, your freezer stays cold while the refrigerator becomes too warm to store food safely.

Signs of a damper control issue:

Fridge is warm despite freezer functioning normally
Little or no airflow coming into the fridge compartment
Visible damper door not opening (in some models, behind a vent cover near the top or back of the fridge)

How to fix:

Inspect the damper: Locate the damper and check whether it's open. You may be able to see it by removing a cover inside the fridge.
Test movement: Manually try to open and close it. If it feels jammed or doesn’t move freely, it could be broken or blocked.
Check the motor/control: In electronically controlled models, the motor or control board might be faulty. If it doesn’t respond to temperature changes, replacement is likely needed.
Replace if necessary: If the damper or its motor is damaged, it should be replaced with a compatible part.

1.4. Dirty or Clogged Condenser Coils

Refrigerator condenser coils are responsible for releasing heat from inside the refrigerator to keep the system cool. When the coils are clogged or dirty, the compressor must work harder and may overheat, reducing its efficiency in cooling the refrigerator section. The freezer may still stay cold for a while, but the fridge struggles to maintain its temperature.

Signs of dirty or clogged condenser coils:

Freezer is working fine, but fridge is warm
Compressor runs constantly or is unusually hot
Increased energy consumption
You haven’t cleaned the coils in over 6–12 months

How to clean condenser coils:

Unplug the refrigerator – Always disconnect power before doing any maintenance.
Locate the coils – Typically found at the back or underneath the unit. Refer to your fridge's manual if unsure.
Vacuum the coils – Use a vacuum with a brush attachment to remove loose debris.
Wipe with coil cleaner – Spray a refrigerator-safe coil cleaning solution and gently wipe the coils.
Rinse and dry – If needed, lightly rinse with water and dry thoroughly with a clean cloth.
Plug the fridge back in – Allow it to stabilize and monitor temperature changes over the next few hours.

Tip: Cleaning the coils may take 15–30 minutes, but can dramatically improve cooling performance. If your refrigerator still doesn’t cool properly after cleaning, there may be an issue with the compressor or another internal component.

Refrigerator Dirty or Clogged Condenser Coils

Dirty or clogged condenser coils in refrigerator make overheating (Source: AZParts)

1.5. Defrost System Issues

The defrost system plays a crucial role in preventing frost buildup on the evaporator coils, which are responsible for cooling the air inside your fridge. When this system stops working properly, ice accumulates on the coils, eventually blocking airflow to the refrigerator compartment even though the freezer stays cold. The most common causes defrost system failure include:

A burned-out defrost heater, which can no longer melt frost from the coils
A faulty defrost thermostat that doesn’t trigger the defrost cycle
A malfunctioning defrost timer, which fails to initiate the defrost process at regular intervals

Signs of a defrost issue:

Freezer cold, fridge warm
Frost or ice buildup on the back panel of the freezer
Reduced or no airflow into the fridge compartment
Fridge temperature rises slowly over time

How to troubleshoot:

Inspect the defrost timer – This component controls when the defrost cycle starts. If it's not functioning, the refrigerator timer will need to be replaced.
Check for ice buildup – Remove the back panel inside the freezer and look for frost-covered coils.
Test the defrost heater and refrigerator thermostat – These parts require a multimeter to verify continuity and function.
Manual defrost (temporary fix) – Unplug the fridge and let it defrost for 12–24 hours. If it works temporarily afterward, your defrost system likely needs service.

AZParts with durable refrigerator thermostat (Source: AZParts)

1.6. Thermistor or Temperature Sensor Failure

Thermistor continuously monitors the air temperature inside the refrigerator and sends the data to the control board. If the thermistor malfunctions, it can send incorrect readings, leading the system to think the fridge is cold enough even when it’s not.

If the thermistor gives false readings or stops working altogether, the control board may not trigger the compressor or fans to circulate cold air into the fridge. The freezer continues to operate normally because it often has a separate sensor or independent cooling cycle.

Signs of thermistor failure:

Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
Inconsistent fridge temperature or slow cooling
Control board doesn’t respond to actual fridge temperature
No obvious airflow issue, but fridge still underperforms

How to troubleshoot:

Unplug the refrigerator – Safety first before handling internal components.
Locate the thermistor – Usually behind the rear panel inside the fridge or freezer compartment.
Test with a multimeter – Measure resistance across the thermistor. Resistance should vary with temperature. If not, the sensor is defective.
Replace if faulty – A non-responsive or inaccurately reading thermistor must be replaced for proper cooling control.

1.7. Temperature Control Board Failure

The temperature control board functions as the brain of your refrigerator. It receives input from sensors (like the thermistor), controls the compressor, regulates fan operation, and manages the defrost cycle. When this component fails, your fridge may stop cooling properly even though the freezer continues to run normally.

Signs of control board failure:

Fridge not cooling despite no visible airflow or sensor issues
Compressor not running when it should
Evaporator fan not responding even after sensor checks
Inconsistent or erratic temperature readings

How to fix:

Visual inspection – Look for signs of burning, corrosion, or loose connections on the refrigerator control board.
Testing is advanced – Diagnosing a failed board often requires checking voltage outputs and signal timing, which may not be feasible without specialized tools.
Rule out other causes first – Confirm that the thermistor, fans, and defrost system are all functioning before suspecting the board.

Refrigerator Temperature Control Board Failure

Control board is the brain of refrigerator (Source: AZParts)

2. How to Fix a Fridge That’s Not Cooling (But Freezer Works)

If your freezer is working but the fridge isn’t, there’s a good chance that a specific component is failing or airflow is being restricted. Fortunately, many of the causes can be diagnosed and addressed without calling a technician. Below is a step-by-step guide to help you troubleshoot and possibly fix the issue.

2.1. Step 1: Listen for the Evaporator Fan

Start by opening the freezer and listening carefully. The evaporator fan, located behind the rear panel of the freezer, circulates cold air from the freezer into the fridge. If the fan is not running, or if it makes loud or unusual noises, it may be defective.

You can also try turning the fan blades by hand if they don’t spin freely, the motor could be worn out. A multimeter test can confirm whether the motor has electrical continuity. If it doesn’t, replacement is necessary.

2.2. Step 2: Check Air Vents and Damper

Next, inspect the air vents between the freezer and fridge compartments. Cold air moves through these vents, and if they’re blocked by food, packaging, or ice buildup, airflow will be restricted.

Check air vents and damper in refrigerator to fix fridge not working (Source: AZParts)

If your freezer fan is running but you don’t feel cold air entering the fridge, the problem may be a stuck or broken damper control. The damper is a small door that opens and closes to regulate airflow. If it’s stuck in the closed position, it may need to be manually adjusted or replaced.

2.3. Step 3: Inspect for Frost Build-Up

Frost buildup on the evaporator coils can block airflow and prevent the fridge from cooling. Remove the panel at the back of the freezer and check the coils. If they’re heavily frosted over, the defrost system may have failed. This includes the defrost heater, thermostat, or defrost timer.

You can temporarily resolve the issue by defrosting the unit, unplugging the fridge and letting the ice melt naturally, or use warm water to speed up the process. If the cooling returns but the problem comes back within days, a component of the defrost system likely needs replacement.

2.4. Step 4: Clean the Condenser Coils

Dirty condenser coils can cause cooling issues in the fridge by making it harder for the system to release heat. The coils are typically located behind or underneath the fridge. Unplug the refrigerator, and use a vacuum or brush to remove any dust, pet hair, or debris that has accumulated. For thorough cleaning, you can use a coil-cleaning solution followed by a damp cloth. Once dry, plug the fridge back in and monitor its cooling performance.

Clean the refrigerator condenser coils (Source: AZParts)

2.5. Step 5: Test Sensors and Control Board

If all other components appear to be working properly, the issue might be with the thermistor (temperature sensor) or the temperature control board. The thermistor monitors the temperature and sends signals to the control board. If it’s not reading temperatures correctly, the fridge may not cool when needed.

Use a multimeter to test the thermistor for proper resistance changes. If it’s defective, replace it. If the thermistor is working, the control board itself may be malfunctioning. Since diagnosing or replacing a control board can be more technical, it may be wise to consult a professional at this stage.

A refrigerator that isn’t cooling while the freezer still works can be frustrating, but as you’ve seen, the issue often comes down to airflow blockages, faulty components, or simple maintenance oversights. By carefully inspecting each component, from the refrigerator defrost heater to the control board, you may be able to resolve the issue without calling in a technician. If repairs are needed, be sure to use high-quality refrigerator parts from reliable suppliers like AZParts to ensure long-term performance. With the right approach and support, you can have your refrigerator running smoothly again in no time.

Contact Information:

8 The Green, Ste A, Dover, Delaware 19901-3618, United States

support@azparts.com

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